sunset surfing

sunny day, lot of work. at 7 i got enough of work, i grab my wetsuit and my bike, rented a board and went in the water: excellent huge waves, probably the biggest i have even seen, a bit too big for unstable stefi, many, perhaps 100 surfers in the water... first wave, i was standing and sliding on the water: great! that's surfing, dude! all following waves i was pearling (when the nose of the board digs into the water), i even got the board on my head and had to sit on the beach a couple of minutes and massage my head.. but then i was standing a couple of more times. it was so beatiful, the sun slowly going down, the moon becoming more and more shiny, the sky getting darker, the lights of the oil platforms offshore starting to blinking.. pity i don't have any pic!
(ps. at 8.30 i was back to my laptop.. never be away for too long from the laptop!)

this is life in huntington beach, surf city USA